Travelers often draw comparisons between the regions of Istria and Tuscany; the rolling hills, timeworn stone villas, the exquisite cuisine – but in our opinion, there’s just one Istria, and it really is full of surprises.
This heart shaped peninsula in the northwest of Croatia is wrapped by the gentle sapphire sea glittering with warm sunlight and miles of stacked limestone bristling the coastline. It’s interior is a basin of undulating emerald hills emerging from foggy valleys. From this myriad of microclimates spawns a bounty of agricultural riches. Rows upon rows of olive and fig trees line up in elegant symmetry. Wild truffles, veiled below the forest floor, stow their unsuspecting intensity. Yet it is the over 4,000 hectares of vines, fed from iron-rich soil under the care of passionate, virtuoso winemakers, which yield the most alluring artistry of Istria.
A message from Wanda “Istria is really a lovely region and I am very happy to call it a home. One of the strange affairs I’ve had here is my complete shift from red to white wines. Istrian signature wine is a white grape variety, called Istarska Malvazija. And I am totally crazy about this wine. Bear in mind that this is the wine to taste on your visit to any Istrian winery, even if you are not into white wines. Authentic, fresh, and light, this is a flagship wine that you simply cannot ignore if you visit any of the wineries in Istria.”
Istria is home to three prominent native grape varieties.
The best known native white grape, Malvazija Istarska, is dry yet refreshing with citrusy notes, stony minerality and a spicey aroma. The grape also expresses itself differently depending on the site, absorbing attributes from the various red, white, gray, or black soils.
The region’s best-known red grape, Teran, is earthy, full-bodied and robust. With flavors of the forest, red fruits and high tannins, Teran is a perfect pairing with Istrian smoked meat and game dishes.
An aromatic yellow Muscat, Borgonja, locally known as Muškat Momjanski, can be a floral and fruity dry wine or a more intense dessert wine.
The iron-rich terra rossa soils of Istria produce excellent international grape varieties for which they are particularly renowned. Here rich red wines from such grapes as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon grow aside the native varieties Teran and Refošk.
Award and Accolades
At the 2019 London International Wine Challenge, Istrian wines took home 24 awards. At the Decanter Awards in 2017, Istrian winemakers won 5 out of 10 Decanter Gold Awards for Croatia. Also, in 2017, Istria was named Wine Region of the Year by the Swedish wine tasting association Munskänkarna. At the 2016 Decanter World Wine Awards, Istrian Veralda was named as the best red single varietal wine. The 2016 International Wine Challenge awarded Benvenuti’s Muscat San Salvadore, as the surprise winner.
In the quiet Istrian village of Kaldir, overlooking Motovun, the Benvenuti winery tells a story of family, tradition and terroir. Father Livio, with his sons Albert and Nikola create wines that convey the terroir on which the grapes and by which the Benvenuti family live.
Why we love it:
Family values and tradition are elemental. With a focus on micro-locations and indigenous varieties, their intention is to utilize the advantages of this unique territory sustainably and with a sincere gratitude for the work.
Experiences:
Tastings begin with a tour of the wine cellar, where your guide will introduce the history and process of Benvenuti winemaking. In the tasting room wines are accompanied with locally sourced bites. Reservations required.
About 10 km inland from the Adriatic Sea, in the small village of Krasica, the Clai estate encompasses 10 hectares of vineyards and 5 hectares of olive orchards. Salty sea breezes, plenty of sunshine, and well drained limestone soil provide the foundation for their wines. Giorgio Clai makes natural wines, seeking to enhance the terroir.
Why we love it:
You can taste and feel the passion and dedication of the winemaker and his team. With traditional and organic methods of framing, Clai wines succeed in embodying the terroir of “white” Istria. The fine wines are complex and well-balanced, clean, and elegant.
Experiences:
The terrace and tasting room provide breathtaking views of the hillsides, vineyard, and olive orchards. Taste the excellent wines, olive oils and grappa. For something for unique, taste the “orange wine”, which is 100% natural.
Owner and enologist, Danijel Kraljević is passionate, hard-working and loves wines! The philosophy at Cuj is “wine is not made in the cellar, but in the vineyard.” Cuj winery is based on a family tradition of winegrowing, winemaking and olive oil making dating back to the 15th century.
Why we love it:
One of Wanda’s favorite winemakers in Istria. Visiting this winery is a great experience. Danijel and his family will make you feel very welcome and at ease while sharing with you their family’s history of winemaking and viticulture.
Experiences:
Branko, manager and sommelier, leads many of the tours. The property is home to a wine cellar, oil mill and tasting room. Please note the winery accepts cash only (Kuna or Euro).
A family with a history of winemaking, Fakin opened in 2010 and has since received many awards and accolades for their work. Fakin Teran 2017 received the Gold from Decanter World Wine. With a focus on the main local varieties of grape; Malvazija Istarska, Teran, and Muscat, while also producing Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah in small quantities, they currently produce 9 wines.
Why we love it:
Near the stunning hilltop town of Motovun, arriving to the winery you get the feeling of a family making wine, and running this business, while living in the town. The experience is personal and low-key, and the wines are very good. As their t-shirts read, these are “Good Fakin wine!”
Experiences:
Tastings are organized at the winery, with options for small bites being introduced in 2021. Vineyard tours can be arranged with advanced reservations. The winery operates a Konoba restaurant in Motovun serving traditional local cuisine, and of course, local wine – Konoba Fakin. Please note the winery accepts cash only (Kuna or Euro).
A century of winemaking traditions, the Markežić family continues to produce wine by investing a great deal of effort and maintaining respect for tradition. A highly unique and special feature of Kabola Winery is the use of “amphorae”, buried underground, for fermenting the wine.
Why we love it:
A gorgeous winery to visit in the vicinity of Momjan, on a clear day you can see not only the Adriatic Sea, but also the Alps. A very interesting winery to visit!
Experiences:
A gorgeous winery with a traditional stone building featuring wine cellar, tasting room, and even a small museum dedicated to wine and wine making process. They offer 4 different wine tastings, guided by their professional sommelier. Lite bites are available with tastings. Reservations recommended.
For Matošević, winemaking is not a business, it is a lifestyle. He strives to continually elevate Croatian wines to higher levels of quality and refinement. Matošević is a leading figure in Croatian winemaking, highly respected by his peers, he was instrumental in Istria becoming a designated appellation.
Why we love it:
Wines from the cellar of Ivica Matošević are of high quality and recognizable. His mission is to make a wine that reflects the unique territory, bathed in fertile soil and sunshine. They say they “bottle the territory for you to taste, get to know, and enjoy.”
Experiences:
The winery offers several options for wine tasting: classic degustation or wine tasting programs with a cellar tour and options for small bites. Reservation required, Closed Sundays.
“The Red Land” (terra rossa) of the Meneghetti vineyards, richer in stone than soil, is favorable for cultivating red wine grapes. Meneghetti wines are cultivated in an ecologically sustainable manner with deep respect towards nature, including the hand pruning of vines. Meneghetti also proudly produces award-winning top-quality olive oil.
Why we love it:
The epitome of elegant Istrian style; sip cool and crisp wine on the veranda, surrounded by fragrant herbs, before dining on locally inspired culinary creations skillfully prepared by Executive Chef, Andy Gaskin. The Relais & Chateau Meneghetti Wine Hotel is a boutique property, set in nature, with 24 rooms and suites. The Restaurant Meneghetti, has been hosting guests since 1912 and is listed on the Michelin guide.
Experiences:
“Taste all the best that life has to offer”! The winery offers several options for tasting wines and olive oil, including special tastings of limited edition Meneghetti wines of exquisite quality. Reservations required.
“Honest & Natural” – Roxanich wines are shaped by its terroir, the climate and microclimate conditions, and the type and characteristics of the soil, creating a grape that comprises its unique character. Roxanich takes a different approach. With a dozen natural wines, several which are aged with skin-fermentation for up to 180 days, some white wines are left in barrel for years.
Why we love it:
In a small village at the base of the hill which Motovun crowns, Roxanich is home to a winery, hotel, and restaurant. The Roxanich Wine & Heritage Hotel features super chic interiors of gold subway tile and flamboyant florals. The restaurant offers local cuisine based on the gastronomic heritage of the region with a modern touch, made with locally grown ingredients.
Experiences:
They offer four tasting flights, each with guided tours of the winery led by a sommelier, two include lite bites. Wanda’s favorite is the white, Ines u bijelom wine.
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