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A Local’s Guide to Christmas in Prague

With fairytale castles, stunning medieval architecture, rich cultural traditions and a fascinating layered history, few cities can rival the allure or beauty of the Czech capital. Come Christmas, Prague’s compact city center is transformed into a winter wonderland, with vibrant Christmas markets scattered across the cobbled squares. The festivities are centered around Prague’s two main squares,  Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, which make the perfect jumping off point for seasonal shopping and snacking. Here to guide you to the best Prague has to offer is Tasteful Croatian Journeys’ Luxury Travel Designer, Tia Lovisa Moreira, who last April had the opportunity to travel to the Czech Republic on a Fam trip organized and hosted by the Czech National Tourist Board. Fam trips (Familiarization Trips) are educational trips organized exclusively for media or travel professionals to introduce specific regions and aid in building relationships and partnerships. On the trip, Tia accompanied Michaela Claudino, Director of CzechTourism in the USA, and a select group of North American travel specialists on a journey which began in Prague and went on to explore Western and Southern Bohemia. While there, she had the pleasure of meeting Irena Svejcarova, a local guide who has been living and working in Prague since 1995, and Helena Valtrova, the General and Sales Manager of the 5* Emblem Hotel in Prague. Today, they share their local insights and insider tips to Europe’s most magical holiday destination.

Tia: I have always loved Christmas in Europe. I find it to be a truly magical time of year. I lived in Munich, Germany for some time, and there was always a wonderful sense of anticipation when the holiday markets would open at the start of Advent. Living in Prague, what is your favorite thing about the start of the holiday season?

Michaela: Although I am from the Czech Republic, I have been living in NY for the past 20 years. I love going back to the Czech Republic , and especially during the holiday season because it is all about family, friends , pausing for a moment, and enjoying the wonderful Christmas atmosphere. I feel like people in the Czech Republic do slow down at the beginning of Advent,  visit family , hang out with friends over a glass of a mulled wine,  enjoy Christmas concerts, and are still respectful of traditions.

Helena: For me, it’s the festive season, the smell of the mulled wine everywhere, the Christmas carols, snow and magic in the air. The lighting of the Christmas tree on the first advent Saturday is when it really kicks off for me.

Irena: I love to meet my friends on Old town Square. I enjoy talking to them and sharing this special advent spirit while drinking mulled wine together.

Tia: For our guests visiting Prague during Christmas, we of course know that the central Christmas Market is located in Old Town Square, but what is your favorite smaller and lesser known market in the city?

Irena: Nearly every smaller square in Prague organizes local small Christmas Markets – Lesser town, Prague castle, Náměstí Míru, etc.

Helena: Yes, there are literally markets on every square but the one that I like in particular is the one behind the St. Vitus Cathedral up on the Prague Castle – during the evening. It’s just magical with all the lights of the surrounding castle area.

Michaela: Another personal revelation- I am not from Prague , but from Brno – the second largest city in the Czech Republic, located in the eastern part of the country- called Moravia. Since you got some tips for Prague from my other colleagues, I can give you some tips for Brno. Brno was the first city in the Czech lands to erect a Christmas tree on its main square (96 years ago).   Brno was again the first to introduce a system of returnable cups at Christmas markets. And only in Brno can you try the spiked cider drink, Turbomošt. The tree lighting ceremony really marks the beginning of the Advent and is worth attending. The main Christmas market is on the largest square, called the Freedom Square, and it also offers live performances every day, caroling and an impressive nativity scene carved from wood.  There are however are two more Christmas markets in the city -one dedicated just to food and drinks. My favorite one is on the Cabbage Market (Zelný trh)  and it offers a lot traditional handmade crafts and items.

Tia: Christmas Markets offer such a wonderful variety of trinkets and treasures to be bought. What do you recommend for those searching for an authentic souvenir or gift? Is there anything in particular that is considered a truly “local” gift?

Helena: Honestly, this is the only down side of the Christmas Markets, as every year I find that it’s more about the food and less about the traditional gifts, let alone the authentic ones. Nevertheless, look out for usually a very small stall – sometimes it’s just a table and a chair – that has an older lady painting the glass Christmas tree decorations. They use the old method, usually the lady is dressed in traditional Czech national costume.

Michaela: I also always look for traditional Christmas ornaments. As you might know, Czech Republic is known for glass and jewelry production and many of the Christmas ornaments are exported worldwide. The production is not very large, many are made by local family businesses which makes it even more unique. My personal favorites are the handmade glass beads ornaments, made in a small village called Poniklá.

Irena: Me too. I usually search for some local hand-made decorations for my Christmas tree, something new and unique.

Tia: How about food? Do you have a favorite Christmas Market food or food stand? What should our travelers try while in the Czech Republic?

Irena: Every market offers nearly the same, such as “Trdelník,” a sweet traditional cinnamon roll, hot mulled wine, non-alcoholic drinks, and many local traditional meals like roasted pork, sausages, gnocchi with meat and cabbage, potato soup, cabbage soup etc.

Michaela: There are a few food and drink items every traveler must try : large  chunks of delicious pork hams cooked on an open fire; tasty barbequed sausages; flatbread topped with garlic, cheese, and ketchup (langoš). There is also a variety of cakes and sweets to choose from such as spicy gingerbread (perníčky) or sweet dumplings (sladké knedlíky); and pancakes (palačinky). For drinks, you can sample the famous Czech beer, such as Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen or Budvar. Or opt for a hot drink: mulled wine (svařák); hot chocolate (horká čokoláda); honey wine (Medovina); or grog, a mixture of rum, water, lemon and sugar.

Helena: Your travelers need to try the mulled wine and the traditional Prague ham!

Tia: That all sounds delicious! Okay, last question… what one piece of advice do you offer our travelers visiting Prague during the holiday season?

Helena: Just enjoy the festive time but beware of pick pocketers and prepare yourself for big crowds. Find a local church and attend one of the holiday Christmas carol concerts.

Michaela: Yes, aside from sightseeing and shopping, don’t forget to include culture and visit one of the many concerts , theater performances or live outdoor performances. Dress up and enjoy the festive atmosphere!

Irena: I agree, at least once enjoy a Christmas concert in one of the local baroque churches. It has really outstanding atmosphere!

Interested in exploring Prague’s fairy-tale Christmas Market? Tasteful Croatian Journeys designs custom itineraries exploring some of Central Europe’s most beloved Christmas Markets. Contact us for more information.

All photos ©trhypraha.cz
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