Although I have lived in New York City, since I was a very young girl, the home of my heart and spirit has always been the place of my birth… Croatia.

I recall the magic wonders and sensations of the Christmases of my very early childhood in Fiume, the city now known as Rijeka.  The aromas of the vin brulé, of fresh pine, of oranges, and of the orahnjaca (Croatian walnut roll) and makovnjaca (poppy seed roll) baking in the oven perfumed the house. I remember the moment when my smiling father arrived home with the tree and me on tippy toes, attempting to participate with my brother and father in the ritual of “making the Christmas tree.” The tree was adorned with oranges and apples, garlands of walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, chocolates covered in shimmering gold and silver, and bonboni (candy) dressed in all the bright colors of the rainbow. After the Angel was safe on the highest bough, the finishing touches were made. From the old tin box, protected as precious jewels and handled with extreme care, the family’s fragile, timeworn, blown glass Christmas baubles were revealed. My heart beat a bit faster as the time to light the candles on the tree arrived.  With affection, I remember the warm glow of the candlelight reflected in the eyes of my brother and my parents – a moment that made my heart jump for pure joy.

That moment, the moment of pure joy that I felt as a little child, I sensed it again when I arrived in Zagreb for the city’s fantastic celebration of Advent. As I wandered about, my pace was light, but I felt as if my heart was hopping and skipping on the streets and piazzas of Zagreb’s city center. A smile powered by happiness and joy marked my lips and eyes, and I fell in love with every stranger that smiled back at me.

Going home to Croatia for Christmas proved to be a most moving personal experience.  The feelings and sentiments awakened in me, the images, the flavors, the aromas, the sounds of happy children giggling, the music, and the songs, helped me recapture the simple pleasures of childhood that are a precious gift which I will always treasure.

Thank you, Zagreb, I am genuinely grateful.