Dining with Tasteful Croatian Journeys: Our Team’s Favorite New Discoveries
The Tasteful Croatian Journeys team visits Croatia and the surrounding regions to explore and learn, seeking out new properties, restaurants, and off-the-beaten-path experiences for our travelers. On these trips, which occur several times per year, the TCJ team also has the opportunity to embrace our friends and colleagues, revisit our favorite properties, restaurants, wineries, and konobas and review the experiences we currently offer. We check, taste, test, look, listen, question and offer praise and/or suggestions for improvements. We try every type of eatery, from humble konobas (taverns) to Michelin starred restaurants – it’s a tough job, but somebody’s got to do it!
Undoubtedly, on every visit, we are introduced to a property or a meal which so exceeds our expectations that it becomes an instant favorite – the flavors and aromas permanently imprinted in our memory. Here below our team shares their fondest food memories from their most recent trips. We invite you to indulge in the memories along with us.
Tia: Pod Zidom Bistro, Zagreb
For me, food is a big part of travel. When I’m abroad, it’s important to me to seek out cuisine which highlights local flavors and upholds tradition without being restricted by it. My ideal restaurant is one whose signature style marries traditional flavors and contemporary techniques. I suppose if I had to sum up what I look for in a restaurant in one word, it would be “innovative.” Perhaps this is why I was so excited to discover Pod Zidom Bistro on my last trip to Zagreb. It felt as though someone had stepped into my mind and from it extracted the formula for my ideal eatery.
One of the city’s leading gastro-bistros, Pod Zidom Bistro is located behind Zagreb’s main square, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, just steps away from the bustling Dolac Market, the city’s famous open-air farmers’ market. The atmosphere is ever so slightly industrial, with a relaxed air and polished service befitting a space which started as a wine bar. Here, head chef Jurica Jantolek reinvents Croatian classics with a delicate sensibility, transforming the “meat and potatoes” characteristic of the Croatian hinterland into fresh and inspiring new dishes. When I visited, our meal began with homemade sourdough bread, still warm from the oven, served with butter flavored by pumpkin oil and toasted pumpkin seeds. From there, we moved onto the “open lasagna,” which was a deconstructed version of the classic dish, composed of homemade noodles topped with a rich oxtail ragu, parmesan foam, and pickled onion. We sampled the beef cheeks as well, Pod Zidom’s most popular dish, which is slow cooked for 8 hours and served atop a bed of Jerusalem artichoke puree with blanched kale, potato slices, and pickled radish. For dessert, the homemade pastry, rolled almost like a cannoli, and filled with light as air white chocolate poppy seed cream and topped with rhubarb was a surprising treat, though in the end I preferred the chocolate ganache with tangerine and olive oil ice cream.
All in all, it was a fantastic and very memorable meal, with surprising flavors and balanced compositions. This is a restaurant that I suspect will only continue to advance, and which I highly recommend to anyone visiting Zagreb – contemporary Croatian cuisine at its best!
Mirela: Foša, Zadar
Croatia in general is a mecca for foodies, especially when it comes to fish. Out of the many extraordinary fish restaurants along the coast which I have visited, Foša is definitely one of my favorites. For me, it is not only about the food, but the whole experience one can have while visiting a restaurant: its location, atmosphere, service, and cuisine. Foša surpassed all of my expectations!
My visit to Foša took place on one of my recent visits to Zadar with Wanda. We dined there for lunch before a half-day excursion to the nearby Kornati Islands. We arrived by foot, as the restaurant is located just a short distance from the city center, hidden within a small harbour just outside the city walls.
My first impression of Foša was outstanding. Welcoming waiters showed us the way to our table on the large waterfront terrace with stunning views of the sea, islands, and boats moored in the harbour. The atmosphere was relaxed but elegant. The crisp white table clothes seemed even brighter in the light of the sun. The décor of the restaurant, like the food, seemed to mix modern and traditional elements.
We opted for an 8-course tasting menu with Croatian wine pairing which focused primarily on the restaurant’s specialty – seafood! To my great surprise, one of my favorite dishes was actually the local lamb, prepared confit and exploding with flavor. Lamb is a popular dish in Croatia, and this was the best I have ever tasted. I was extremely impressed by the skill and creativity of young and talented chef Saša Began, who expertly prepares traditional Dalmatian cuisine with a modern touch.
Below I share the menu we tasted:
- OYSTER, lemon and olive oil foam
- CUTLEFISH AND OCTOPUSS CROQUETTE, harissa, corn, paprika, broad bean
- SCAMPI TARTAR, orange
- LOBSTER, medium rare, hollandaise sauce, dalmatian truffle
- HOME MADE RAVIOLI, scampi sauce
- LAMB CONFIT
- MONKFISH LARDO
- MANGO – MARACUJA, CHOCHOLATE – RASPBERRY
It is no surprise to me that Foša has been included in the Michelin Guide’s list of recommended restaurants. I’m excited to share this discovery with our travelers, and will be sure to reserve them the “best table in the house!”
Wanda: Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar, Split
When visiting Croatia for my personal pleasure, I enjoy sailing with dear friends along the many islands of the Adriatic. It is for me one of the most pleasant seductions to be enjoyed in Croatia. My Adriatic Adventures often begin in Split, a city whose heart is an ancient Roman citadel built by Diocletian, but whose soul is the sea. It is a well-situated starting point for yacht charters.
On my last trip, I had the extreme pleasure of dining at Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar before embarkation on the S/Y Avocado. I was welcomed by the shining, professional, and very special team of Mr. Luka Bokavšek and his sister Ms. Ela Bokavšek. It is the Bokavšek family who owns and manages Bokeria, hospitality deeply embedded in their DNA. They are doing a fantastic job as the entire staff exudes intelligence, caring and special attention to their guests.
The restaurant was named for the famous Boqueria market in Barcelona, and like its namesake, Bokeria too is a symphony of colors and sensations. The dining room is bright and welcoming, with large glass doors and arched windows illuminating the space. A mosaic tiled bar and shelves lined with Aperol and Campari bottles add pops of color. Hanging over the bar are legs of dried Pršut (dry-cured ham similar to prosciutto), an interesting contrast to the massive chandelier which hangs in the center of the room, extending over two floors.
Our meal began with the burratina salad. The creaminess of the cheese was both enhanced and complemented by the sweet, ripe, rainbow colored fruits that accompanied it – red tomatoes and raspberries, orange slices, yellow peaches, and tart blueberries. Next, we shared the “Bruschetta Vis,” which was comprised of tender brioche topped with a ragu style tapenade of tomatoes and capers, anchovies, and soft cheese. Finally, the cod fish spring roll was an experience that made my taste buds dance with pleasure. For dessert, two chocolate eclairs were the perfect finishing touch – a delicate final note to meal which was a mosaic of contrasting experiences and pleasures.
I am happy to share my wonderful experience at Bokeria – personally tested and enjoyed! I know that our VIP travelers will also enjoy their moments there, creating mouthwatering memories that will expand heart and mind.
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