Richard & Nancy W. – Jamesport, NY
Dear Wanda, Tia and Mirela,
Now that we are back home and have had a little time to deal with all the usual re-entry rush after such a long trip, Nancy and I want to say thank you for all of your efforts. We had a fantastic trip. All of the arrangements worked perfectly. Hotels were all wonderful. You were right about the Esplanade in Zagreb. Spectacular. We also really enjoyed our time in Zagreb – and we did get to attend the opera and see “Ero from the Other World”. Even though it was with a house full of grade-school students, it was still an incredible performance.
All of the guides and drivers were also great. We especially want to mention Livio Karavanic in Istria and Asmir Piralic in Bihac. Livio not only was a wonderful and incredibly knowledgeable guide, but when he heard about Nancy’s family roots in Skočaj, he went out of his way to uncover some online information about the village and translate it from Croatian.
Of course, the highlight was our visits to Skočaj itself. Asmir had done a great job with preliminary research. He was also an amazing bridge to the villagers there, who were incredibly welcoming. Within a few minutes of our arrival, a woman walking by offered to get a key to the church so we could go inside.
Then we found ourselves invited to a rakija distilling party nearby. Asmir had already visited and located a couple of people with Tićac connections (we found the name generally spelled that way and not Tičać as in the old records we had found). And, when word quickly spread about our arrival, another woman who was born a Tićac surfaced. All were incredibly hospitable and invited us into their homes and shared coffee, cake and rakija with us. We also found a number of Tićac gravestones in the cemetery. On Sunday, we were able to attend mass in the Skočaj church, which led to an invitation into yet another home with no apparent family connection.
While no one’s memories were long enough to establish a direct connection with Nancy’s grandparents, we are sure it exists. At Asmir’s suggestion, we intend to contact the Diocese of Gospić–Senj to see if they have any records. The church in Skočaj was burned in the Homeland Wars, but we were told that any records were earlier moved to Gospić. We were surprised to find no gravestones in the cemetery predating 1900. Apparently, they have all been replaced by more recent burials.
Thanks again to you and Tasteful Croatian Journeys for making our visit to Croatia so memorable! It was an incredibly memorable experience and we hope to return. And of course we will recommend you highly to friends or anyone who wants a first-hand review. Again, our thanks and appreciation.
Sincerely,
Richard & Nancy
Inside the Skočaj church with a neighbor who found a key to let us in. 
We were invited to a family rakija-making party near the church. 
They gave us a bottle to bring home! 
Nancy with Ivo Tićac, a likely relative. 
Family members preparing the Skočaj cemetery for Day of the Dead 
With the village of Skočaj in the background 
With another likely relative, Kata Prsa, nee Tićac 
With Marija Baricevic, wife of Mile Tićac, another possible relative, in the nearby village of Zagar 
Marija and Mile Tićac’s granddaughter, a medical student. 
Bosnian coffee and cake 
Neighbors Helena and Anton invited us to their house after Sunday mass. Anton is showing his traditional costume that he wears for festivals. 
Neighbors Helena and Anton invited us to their house after Sunday mass. Helena is explaining cake recipe to Nancy.
Some more wonderful tour guides on our trip:
In Trieste with Danica at doorway to Cathedral built on ruins of Roman temple and dedicated to Saint Justus. 
With Marina outside the Rector’s Palace in Dubrovnik 
Early morning bird watching on Pag Island with Josip 
With Sluja in Mostar 
In Zagreb with Leah with St. George wearing a cravat
Richard & Nancy Wines – Jamesport, NY, USA
November 10, 2024