My name is Mirela Benic, the Tasteful Croatian Journeys Concierge. I am your personal concierge and Guardian Angel when you are traveling in the care of Tasteful Croatian Journeys in Croatia, Slovenia and the surrounding regions.

When our friend and partner Vladimir Oravec, the owner of two luxurious yachts, invited our founder, Wanda S. Radetti, to travel with the S/Y Queen Axiera and the catamaran Princess Aphrodite, Wanda selected me to participate in her stead. 

Firsthand knowledge and experience is an important element of our work, and therefore Tasteful Croatian Journeys personally tests, inspects, and approves an experience before recommending it to our travelers.

I am happy to share my sailing adventure with you all, and hope that it will inspire you too to explore the emerald and turquoise waters of the Adriatic.

 

 

In late May, just before the official start of the “sailing season,” I made the trip south from my home in Rijeka to the charming Dalmatian town of Trogir. There, on a balmy Saturday afternoon, I was welcomed on board by Vladimir, the owner, Captain Damir of Catamaran Princess Aphrodite and Captain Jasmin of S/Y Queen Axiera.

I quickly felt so comfortable and welcomed by the crew and other guests, that by the end of the trip I had made new friends.

We did a one-week, round trip itinerary, beginning and ending at the ships’ home port, Marina Baotic in Trogir. Located just 30 miles north from the vibrant city of Split, and only 10 minutes from the Split international airport, Trogir is a charming historical town and a popular home base for yachts. It serves as the starting point for many Dalmatian yacht charters.

I would be sleeping on the Queen Axiera, but as the boats were traveling in tandem, I had the opportunity to explore and experience both yachts – the comfort and space of the catamaran, and the thrill of raising sails on the monohull.

 

 

 

Upon embarkation, I unpacked my things in my cabin. Cozy, yet functional, my room contained a bed, a small storage area, and an ensuite bathroom. The windows opened to allow a salty breeze and let in the warm sunlight. Mine was one of three guest cabins on the Queen Axiera.  Outside my room, there was a modern and elegant salon. It was immediately clear that both yachts are regularly refitted and carefully maintained.

The catamaran Princess Aphrodite had six guest cabins, a bit more spacious than those on the monohull Queen Axiera. Multiple lounge areas indoors and outdoors, made it an ideal place for our large group to gather and relax.

Before raising anchor, the captains offered instructions about safety and security, guided us on the proper use of the equipment on board and usual yachting protocol.

 

 

From Trogir we sailed south toward the island of Šolta.  The closest island to Split, Šolta is surprisingly not heavily touristed, and therefore provides a wonderful opportunity for visitors to experience local life. It is known as one of the greenest islands in Dalmatia and has a long history in olive oil and local honey production. On the west coast of the island of Šolta, we anchored in the protected Bay of Šešula, perfect for just relaxing on the boat, swimming, snorkeling, fishing early in the morning, and watching colorful sunsets.

At lunch time we moored in front of Šišmiš Restaurant. As the Tasteful Croatian Journeys Concierge, part of my job is staying informed about the country’s best dining. I love following chefs and staying up to date on trends… but as a Croatian, I also truly appreciate the simple, fresh, and well-prepared foods that are typically found in our seaside konobas. The best meal you can get is the freshly caught fish from local fisherman.

At Šišmiš we enjoyed a delicious lunch of steak, prawns, tuna, and other local delicacies, all with a spectacular view of the bay. We were personally welcomed by the owner of the restaurant and his friendly and well-trained staff.  Dalmatian hospitality at its finest!

Following lunch, we enjoyed an afternoon siesta on board the yachts. The perfect way to unwind and relax – it helps to induce a state of peaceful “being” rather than “doing”.

We spent that night in the serene bay under a blanket of stars.

 

The next morning, I woke to the aroma of espresso and a savory breakfast.  We disembarked the yachts for a short walk along the unspoiled beaches and crystal-clear sea, with air perfumed by pinewood. Our stroll brought us to the town of Maslinica in the Maslinica Bay, the only settlement and a port on the west side of the island, where we relaxed on the Riva with the locals sipping coffee and making new friends. 

Next, we walked to what is today the Martinis Marchi Heritage Hotel, one of the most luxurious hotels in Croatia. It was developed with the approval of the Serenissima, Republic of Venice, by the Marchi family in 1708.  

 

In the afternoon, we set sail to the island of Vis, the furthest most island from the mainland of Croatia. The winds were perfect! The Queen Axiera glided, sails full, working in perfect harmony with the elements as my hair blew wildly in the wind. I loved the rush of adrenaline and feeling of adventure – something that only a monohull can provide. It was a wonderful contrast to the relaxation and steady comfort of the two hulled Princess Aphrodite.

After some time, we arrived at our destination. Vis spent much of its recent history serving as a Yugoslav military base, cut off from foreign visitors from the 1950s right up until 1989. This isolation preserved the island from development and drove much of the population to move elsewhere in search of work, leaving it underpopulated for many years. Recently, the lack of development has attracted travelers seeking simplicity, undisturbed nature, local flavors, peace, and quiet. 

Vis gained international attention when the film “Mamma Mia, Here We Go Again,” was filmed on the island. However, despite increased interest, the island retains its rustic charm.

 

That evening, after our filling lunch, we decided to relax and enjoy a light dinner on board the yacht. We spent the night moored with a beautiful view of Vis town. 

The next morning, our captain arranged to have a local driver take us to the small fisherman’s village of Komiža on the other side of the island. The drive offered spectacular views of the open sea, especially during the descent toward the village. Located at the foot of mount Hum, on the sunniest part of Vis, Komiža is a typical Mediterranean town with narrow cobbled streets which are protected from the winds. It is known as being one of the warmest destinations in Croatia during winter. Walking through the town we enjoyed the scent of lemons growing in nearby gardens.

Komiža is also known for its excellent seafood, especially lobsters.  The best places to enjoy fresh lobsters are Konoba Jastozera, set on a deck over the water, or just next door at Konoba Bako on their beautiful terrace. Mamma Mia fans might also recognize Konoba Jastozera as the filming location of Bill and Harry’s lunch during which Harry (and his chair) end up in the water.

 

Later that day, we returned to the yachts and departed Vis for the Pakleni islands. This small archipelago is located just off of the island of Hvar, and is home to one of the most beautiful bays in Croatia, Palmižana on the island of St. Klement.

 

Enchanted by the turquoise waters of the bay, we decided to spend our afternoon relaxing at the cabanas of the famous “Laganini Lounge Bar”. We enjoyed the relaxing vibe and wonderful cocktails surrounded by beautiful natural scenery.  

Later, a short walk through the forest brought us to our dinner destination, Meneghello Restaurant, where we ended our day with a wonderful seafood dinner. The restaurant is a part of the Meneghello Art Resort, hidden within lush gardens of rosemary, sage, lavender, basil, mint, cactus, pines, and palms, planted by Eugen Meneghello over 100 years ago. The restaurant is still run by the Meneghello family. Throughout the property, you will find artwork exhibited from the family’s collection which has been acquired throughout the years.

Still early in the season, the bay was not crowded, and so we decided to stay there overnight on buoy.

The next morning, we awoke again to the sun shining, reflecting in the turquoise waters of Palmižana bay. We enjoyed our fresh coffee on deck and decided to spend the afternoon enjoying the sea. Everyone onboard agreed that this was a day which should be spent enjoying the serene waters of the Adriatic, so we sailed to an empty bay nearby. Here it was only us. That is one of the truly wonderful and unique things about sailing – you can always find a bit of the sea just for yourself.

Although the water was still chilly, we could not resist jumping into the water and trying the water toys offered by the catamaran Aphrodite. I grabbed my bikini and a stand-up paddle board and hit the water.

 

When it was finally time to say goodbye to the Pakleni, we set sail back to Šolta island, this time anchoring in the stunning Tatinja bay. We arrived in time for a late lunch at Lonely Paradise. Aptly named, the restaurant is located on a cliff surrounded by beautiful lush gardens of palm trees, flowers and Mediterranean herbs. The appetizers were delicious – homemade cheese, prosciutto, marinated fish and tuna pate – with peka as well as other fish meals for our main course. We couldn’t resist enjoying the moment after lunch sitting on the restaurant’s terrace overlooking the bay and enjoying the sunset. 

 

Departing Solta the next morning, we set sail back to our base marina in Trogir, full of emotions, new experiences and new friendships.

The week of sailing was unforgettable. To immerse myself into a sea of culture, history, spectacular coastlines, and stunning nature… to discover my perfect Croatian island… to cruise on the finest handpicked yachts in Croatia, with the best crew of skippers, hostesses and chefs… was a once in a lifetime experience I will forever treasure.

I look forward to using this experience, working with Wanda, and my colleagues to create the perfect, tailor made experience for our travelers.

Contact us to learn more about private yacht charters.