Effervescent, avant-garde and always elegant, Zagreb embodies the grace and dignity of Old Europe, boasting a rich cultural heritage and artistic vibrancy unlike anywhere else in Croatia. A dynamic, yet unhurried metropolis and capital city, Zagreb’s design beckons one to stroll, relax, and observe, with its many gardens, alfresco squares, landscaped promenades, and secret courtyards.
A year-round destination, each season illuminates a new affirmation of our affection. Zagreb is one of Wanda’s favorite cities of the world, “I love everything that happens here.”
Zagreb’s location has inevitably influenced its character. At an intersection of cultures, empires, and ethnic boundaries, Zagreb, a former Kingdom in its own right, is at once European, Mediterranean, and Austro-Hungarian. Today, Zagreb’s long history is evident in every structure and sidewalk, while its vibrant and cutting-edge art scene energizes contemporary society.
The Croatian capital has not received such popular attention as its Adriatic neighbors; thus, Zagreb may not yet ring familiar to the modern traveler. Be that as it may, this capital city, the seat of the government, where 20% of the country’s population resides, is a cultural capital, a university town, home to generations of artists and poets, with architecture showcasing centuries of history and evolution.
See why locals and visitors alike fall in love with this beautiful and distinct city!
The city is divided into three sections: Gornji Grad (“Upper Town”) the historic center , Donji Grad (“Lower Town”) built mostly in the 19th century, and Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), with the modern metropolis encircling the historic areas.
Gornji Grad (“Upper Town”) is full of medieval charm. The settlement was founded in 1094, and its layout has changed little since the 13th century. The tiny, cobbled streets wind, dressed in cafes and restaurants, until they find a beautiful open square to unfurl into. Zagreb’s many beautiful, exposed squares, are illuminated by 214 gas lamps, introduced in 1863, and still manually lit by lamp lighters creating a romantic ambience.
The Upper Town is home to the neo-Gothic Zagreb Cathedral, whose prominent twin spires have become the symbol of the city. Also, within Upper Town is the fortified settlement of Gradec, Ban Jelacic Square, the Presidential Palace, Parliament square, St. Mark’s square with its Gothic church of the same name,the Baroque church of St. Catherine in Catherine’s square, museums, and galleries.
Ride the Funicular – The Funicular is the shortest cable railway on earth, navigating 66 meters in 64 seconds. This cable car has connected the upper and lower towns since 1890, making it the first means of public transportation in Zagreb and a delightful experience.
Donji Grad (“Lower Town”) exemplifies the grandeur of Old Europe. Largely created in the late 19th century, the Lower Town spreads out between Ilica and the River Sava. Its vibrant streets offer cafes and restaurants, many of the city’s museums, and the National theater. The gardens of Lower Town are adorned with sculptures by Croatian artists, often in homage to the namesake of the park.
Across the river Sava is Novi Zagreb (“New Zagreb”), a residential area with many large-scale apartments. A remnant of Cold War era construction, many residents are attracted to the warm neighborhood appeal. The “Street Art Museum” is a revitalization project that connects local artists to bare walls in lieu of canvas, transforming the area and boosting the art scene.
Like many European capital cities, Zagreb offers it citizens an array of open-air markets to buy fresh local produce, dairy, baked goods, flowers, kitchenware, specialty items, and everyday goods. Zagreb boasts 25 markets across different neighborhoods; the most famous of these is the Dolac Market, the open-air market directly north of Jelačić Square affectionately known as “the belly of Zagreb”. The market emerged in 1930 with a focus on farm goods from local villages – it has since grown into a must-visit gastronomic haven offering food from all over Croatia; handmade pasta, Adriatic seafood, meats, handmade pasta, cheeses, and of course farm fresh fruits and vegetables. The Dolac Market is a social gathering place for citizens and visitors to Zagreb. We recommend a visit in the morning.
Just to the north of the Dolac Market is the colorful flower market at Petrica Kerempuh square. Best known as an antique market, Britanac (The British Maket) is where locals go to find beautiful and unique vintage items, on Thursdays it is a book market.
Mali Plac offers a novel approach to bringing farm to market – this mobile organic food market sells goods from small local producers who use sustainable, and ecological methods. The farmers seek to bridge the connection between producers and consumers by direct interaction. They operate at various locations depending on the season, so check their website for full details.
Zagreb is known as a coffee town. The city is home to over 4,500 cafés, bistros, and restaurants, equal to a ratio of 1 café per 175 inhabitants. In Zagreb, you are never more than a few steps from a cup of strong espresso. This is likely due to the fact that drinking coffee in Zagreb, and throughout Croatia, is not about a caffeine fix, it is an experience. One of socializing, people watching, and slowing down to enjoy the pleasure of the present moment over the bold and comforting aroma of coffee.
Enjoy the unhurried ritual of špica, a Saturday morning social appointment on every local’s calendar, which takes place between 11-2pm. Once you have identified your favorite outdoor, streetside table, cozy up to this serene tradition in true Zagrebian fashion. A popular spot for špica is Tkalčićeva Street, where tables spill out into the street, as time passes slowly.
One of Zagreb’s specialty coffee roasters, Cogito Coffee, serves up their brew along with matcha lattes, and teas. Their flagship location is just minutes from Ban Jelačića Square. Another local favorite is Velvet Café, where minimalist décor and homemade pastries add to the simplicity at the heart of the špica ritual.
Another local favorite is Johann Franck café, chic and contemporary spot located in the very center of Zagreb on the main square overlooking the statue of Ban Jelačić and Zagreb cathedral.
Craftsmanship is part of Zagreb’s heritage. The city boasts a strong tradition of finely produced handmade items, each individually crafted and one-of-a-kind.
A paradise for handmade, artisan goods, made in the traditional style and passed down through generations, we invite you to enjoy shopping that is far beyond ordinary.
For fashion forward travelers, gentlemen’s suites, and ties are elegantly tailored, while shoes for both men and women are excellently cobbled and made to order. The family shoemaking tradition of Strugar Shoes began in 1967, today they are known for creating high quality bespoke shoes for all walks of life. For the oldest millinery in Zagreb, head to Hats Škrgatić, where 6 generation of the Škrgatić family have passed on the skills of hand producing artisan hats for 140 years.
For elegant everyday items, look for a modern Penkala Pen; an authentic Croatian souvenir since the first pen was invented in 1906 by Slavoljub Penkala. We also love the practical and stylish Šestine umbrella, part of the regional folk costume dating back to the 18th century and registered as a protected non-material cultural good of the Republic of Croatia. The Cerovečki family have been creating umbrellas and parasols for over a century.
Radićeva Street, the “long street”, is a pedestrian only, cobblestone street lined with colorful homes, perfect for window shopping at elegant boutiques as you walk up from the lower town to the upper town. Enjoy a stroll, perhaps stopping for traditional baked goods at one of the many cafés or restaurants.
Zagreb offers an exciting and diverse calendar of events. Festivals of music, art, gardens, and general merry-making take place all year round.
Street festivals are a part of every season. In Spring, “C’est is D’Best”features an international cast of performers set on street corners and stages across the city. Each summer, a Zagreb favorite is “Summer on Stross”, where music and entertainment is offered on the Strossmayer Promenade. Nicknamed “Strossmartre” in honor of Paris’ Montmartre neighborhood, it is a great spot to enjoy a glass of wine and take in the lovely views of the city. A particularly special event takes place marking “Half Years Day”, on June 31st, celebrated with a fireworks display.
Perhaps the best-known event is summer’s INMusic festival, where modern beats energize dancing crowds over the multi-day experience, drawing top acts and guests from around the world.
The story of Zagreb is never complete without speaking of Advent, their impressive, month long celebration of Christmas, that transforms the entire city into a picturesque wonderland. We especially look forward to returning during Advent each year as it is always a bit different, offering new events, surprise locations, and delightful experiences. Christmas markets nestled under glistening lights, seasonal dishes served from street vendors, the aroma of warm mulled wine, and a daily program of open-air entertainment and performances delight every moment at this magical time.
Read about Zagreb’s award-wining Christmas markets here
Discover some of Zagreb’s more than 50 wonderous Museums. Zagreb is rightly called a city of museums, as there are more per square foot than any other city in the world. One of the most unique museum experiences is the Museum of Broken Relationships which displays a one-of-a-kind collection of globally crowd sourced artifacts and sentimental objects of love stories that have ended. Do not mistake this for a display of heartbreak and heartache, the museum shows its visitors how these personal tokens of affection and love can teach us about universal themes of love and longing. Another TCJ favorite is the Croatian Naïve Art Museum, dedicated to the artistic phenomenon of local, self-taught artists. The emergence and embrace of Naïve art mimics that of the emergence of democratic values and government and shows that each individual has the right to express themselves. The space was the first of its kind, and although home to an expansive collection, only 80 works are to be displayed at a time, making for a continually fresh experience.
For a special visit, stop at the former home and studio of Croatia’s preeminent sculptor Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962). The Meštrović Atelier collection boasts numerous sculptures of marble, wood, and bronze as well as reliefs, drawing and prints. See why Meštrović left an indelible mark on Croatia’s art scene.
Additional Museums worth noting: Museum of Contemporary Art, Museum of Illusions, Art Pavilion, Croatian National Theatre, Academy of Music, and Vatroslav Lisinski Concert Hall.
Accommodations in Zagreb range from boutique luxury to 5-star fit for Royalty, providing guests a variety of fine options. We suggest guests stay near the Old City, to be within easy reach of this elegant Capital’s highlights. The team at Tasteful Croatian Journeys presents recommendations based on the specific needs of our travelers, the size of the party, the dates of travel, budget, and the desired experience. With excellent selections for our travelers staying in Zagreb, we are sure to have the perfect property for each guest.
Read about the Hotel Esplanade, once a Stop on the Orient Express.
Zagreb’s dining scene has grown exponentially in recent years to offer a culinary landscape as rich and varied as the city itself. Befitting of any grand European capital, Zagreb offers a diverse array of exciting culinary options. Diners will enjoy everything from street-food and fusion to modern bistros and fine dining. The city’s restaurant scene is marked by talented chefs from home and abroad who are redefining Croatia’s gastronomic identity, while still honoring tradition.
Gourmand travelers should treat themselves to the fabulous Zinfandel’s Restaurant, at the Hotel Esplanade. Chef Ana Grgic’s innovative take on local cuisine has earned them a reputation as one of the best restaurants in Croatia. The setting includes terrace views and alfresco dining options.
Dynamic new restaurants such as the Michelin starred Noel and trendy Pod Zidom Bistro are putting their own spin on the Croatian cuisine of Zagreb. Reinventing favorites with modern techniques and flavors.
Your Tasteful Croatian Journeys team provides our curated guide with a complete list of our favorite restaurants, cafes, bars, markets, and bakeries, included with your travel documents.
At your service is our Tasteful Croatian Journeys Concierge to arrange reservations and ensure the optimal seating and time for the best experience!
Read Travel Designer Tia’s experience at Pod Zidom Bistro here
Zagreb fully experiences all four seasons, with the climate producing weather that is generally very pleasant. Croatia’s capital enjoys dry, warm and sunny summers, with average temperatures in the mid 70’s (F). Rainfall consistent throughout the year, averaging 5-10 days per month with some showers. The autumn season tends to see the most rain. Winters in Zagreb are cold and dry, yet the capital will see some snowfall each year.
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